H4 HARNESS

If for any reason you want to run a harness suitable for H4 running lights with active low and high beams this is for you. A on-off-on 3 position mini toggle will allow the circuit to turn ON/OFF and select between high and low beams independently of the main headlight.

You can implement this for dual running light sets as well, which is what I ended up doing because I couldn't find a decent H4 reflector that was in a 4.5" diameter format.

You can take sealed 5-3/4" automotive headlight bulbs for cars and substitute them into a Customer Chrome spot light set which is 5-3/4". Then you have a simple system to maintain and parts are available at most auto parts establishments and you have 3 headlight!!!! Muahahaha.

Now as to consideration of the load of 3, 60/55W H4 bulbs on the bike. For your Nomad, it should crank out 42amps @ 3000 R.P.M. Since we don't idle at 3000 R.P.M., this might be a drain on the charging with all 3 H4 engaged. If you read the manual for the bike, with regards to installing a light bar, it recommends not to install over a 70W load, if you are using the 2 pre-wired accessory plugs which are located inside the headlight bucket. Even though it is not on the same circuit as the headlight, This accessory circuit uses the same gauge as the headlight. Since you are in theory limited to a 60/55W headlight bulb, it makes sense they would limit the accessories to 70W as well due to wire gauge they selected when designed the bike. I have noticed that 55W H3 running lights dim when the fan comes on which leads me to believe the potential for battery drain is there. However they to dim with the 35w too, but not with 25W H3 bulbs. So no big deal, in heavy stop and go traffic, turn them off. At driving speed with the RPMs up, the generator will keep up with the demand.

2 - Pilot PL-HARN3, "pre-wired harness kit with micro switch for 12 volt auxiliary lamps" from Pepboys. They have everything you need except a good switch. The one in the pack is too flimsy and end up in the trash.

I elected to modify the Pilot Relay kit. The 12 gauge wire I bought was used to run power and ground from the battery to the relay harness which I relocated behind the headlight and the chrome fork cover. I am running out of room under the seat so instead of pressure stressing the components and connections under the seat, I went up front. I used 3M trim tape, stuck the relays together, tie wrapped them together, and anchored them back in the opening. The main power harness runs under the tank on the left side of the bike next to the horn harness, and the hazard light harness. Solder everything well to avoid cold solder joints which will corrode underneath. Shrink wrap every where that bare wire exists. I use that role of electrical tape and hand wrap all my harnesses in addition to the shrink wrap. I do not like to do projects twice. Avoid placement of the wires where the potential for harness intrusion exists such as a square corner. Avoid high head sources if possible and try to use a quality wire.

Here is the functional diagram. This is really simple to do. But if you don't feel comfortable doing it, don't.

Ok this next idea, I stole from Gadget. I wanted to put some pictures up of more or less what he did since I liked his implementation so much. You drill a hole in the top of the front cover of the left handle bar switch cover housing and install that Radio Shack switch listed above. The switch has just enough room to fit in and the wiring isn't stuffed up in there or pinched in anyway. You can see how the 3 wires are routed into the housing. Looking at the switch you also see the 3 wires which are, the center wire is the 12v switched input and the 2 out side wires are the Relay Trigger wires. A switched input means if the key isn't switched on, your in the dark. Speaking of dark the pictures suck sorry the garage is dark and metal doesn't photograph well.

So anyway you end up with a really clean looking little switch with a mount solid as a rock. And you feel the need to express yourself with a dash of color, the switch comes with several colored end caps. Kind of like little party hats.... no wait that's condoms, never mind. Speaking of waterproofing, I am not really concerned about rain being an issue, if I do ever become concerned, I will put a piece of well chewed gum over it. You don't want sugar getting down in the switch....

So how does it perform? Like 3 head lights....LOL. The trick is to find a set of these which has a reflector that is designed well. The smaller sized ones have a pattern shaped like the letter "u". These are the $48-$58 dollar type available form everyone it seems. I guess you need to drop some dollars for an Adzure unit do get a respectable reflector. As a result of the lack of a quality H4 reflector in the low price range, I am sticking with my H3 bulbs until HID units are more readily available and the novelty pricing comes down like a regular bulb, or at least comes down 1/2 price.

Someday I'll try that sealed beam trick I mentioned at the top of the page.