AIR HORN INSTALLATION
Technical specifications:Stebel
139db, Nautilus
Sound Output: 139 dB
Operating Voltage: 12 Volts
Absorbed Current: less than 18A
Fundamental Frequency: 530 Hz & 680 Hz
Weight: 0.6 kg (1.3 lbs)
Dimensions: 5.9" (150mm) x 4.4" (112mm) x 3.7" (95 mm)
Reaction time: less than 90 milli-seconds
To hear a sound file for this horn go to www.stebel.it click on products, click on electropneumatics, then click on Nautilus.
This is a Stebel 139db, Nautilus Compact air horn. I bought it on Ebay for $35. If you want a loud horn, buy this. Do not test it in your garage with the door closed. LOL. It was a wonderfully annoying as hell tone to it, people and animals will want to get away from you when you fire it off.
It comes in 3 colors which are, black, red and this chrome version. Installation for me was simple. The horn is mounted where the Goat Belly use to be since that space was emptied when the V&H Baggers went on. I used the stock horn arm to mount the unit. I turned the arm around backwards, added a few washers as spacers and a longer bolt for the horn arm, (stock bolt too short after turned the arm around), and it was on.
I used 12ga. wire to run from the battery to a 30amp inline fuse then snaked the wired under the edge of the tank and used tie wraps to secure the wire. The wire comes out in between the radiator and the engine where it drops down to the relay. Crimp terminal connectors are required as well as wire because the horn comes with; the horn, 1 relay,1 bolt and 1 nut and that's it. The relay is a standard 30 amp automotive type with 4 terminals. Here we go. The Power lead snakes downward from around the radiator, along the bottom of the frame, under the left foot rest and to the horn.
1. You simply pull the 2 wires off the back of the stock horn and plug them into to pins 85 and 86 on the back of the relay. It doesn't matter which goes to which because these 2 terminals (only these 2) are not polarity sensitive.
2. The hot wire from the battery goes to pin 30/51 (could be labeled as either)
3. You take the last pin, 87, of the relay and take that to the + terminal on the air horn.
4. The air horn has one other pin besides the one mentioned in Step #3 and it is ground. So you will need to take this last pin to ground the best way you can. I used the bolt which holds this entire apparatus to the frame as my grounding point.
Notice the specs say it is going to pull around 18amps @24v so 8 amps is our useable 12v number so don't put under a 10 amp fuse in the fuse holder. And don't think that you can get away with not running a fused wire run to the battery for this little monster. If you try to use the existing 2 connections for a standard horn you will be replacing a lot of fuses. If you are going to use the accessory jacks under the seat or in the headlight bucket, good luck, and make sure you haven't tacked other devices such as spotlights into those connectors. The accessory fuse is only a 10 amp fuse. You make the call how you want to install it. I personally believe in separating/isolating circuits from one another. It's just the way I do things.
I have noticed that in this part of the country where the humidity and temperature are high during the summer months, air conditioners in cars run all the time, windows up, radios on, drivers in their own world of coolness and surrounded by music. Most of the time when I have to use the horn, I HAVE TO USE THE HORN and I lay in to it to get their distracted attentions. We aren't talking little "toots", we are talking a 3-6 blasts. You would be amazed at people in their cars do not respond to a 139db horn screaming right next to them when they are cutting you off, or pulling out right in front of you and the continue unaffected. Or perhaps you wouldn't be amazed. Anyway, cooler weather is a different story where people have their windows down or cracked more often.
Wiring Diagram Click to Enlarge
