I used Radiantz LED boards From Custom Dynamics which included one solid pattern run/brake for the center stock taillight housing and

4 of the 1.85"diameter red dual intensity LED boards of which 2 of the boards which are a run/brake configuration and the other two were

run strictly as turn signals. (1.85" Diameter Replacement Cluster 48 LEDS--comes in Amber or Red.)

Tail light Video 

The tail light run/brake board is the Cateye Flush mount kit.
Includes Cateye retro, box to mount the retro and a Red lense

Optional Built in Turns - Can be wired as Run/Brake or Run/Brake/Turn
Dimensions: Width 4.10" Height 1.90"

Item: 5303-11  Custom Dynamics - Motorcycle Flush Mount Lights (Dual Intensity) 

I used colored tape to color code all the wires so all new harness I made match with the Kawasaki wire color coding. A total of 5 holes were drilled per saddlebag and all were plugged with black silicone. The wire used is actually Primary Automotive Wire from Pepboys. All connections are soldered and heat shrink applied to the entire length of each harness to seal it up. 3M automotive trim tape was used to secure the LED boards to the insides of the gutted tail light assemblies. 

It should be noted that the 2 additional taillight assemblies had to be sanded down to meet the contour of the saddlebags which is a different angle than the fender and it's tail light. That was a trial and error type thing and you don't want to mess it up because the housings are pricey. The rubber gasket which insulates the tail light housing and semi waterproofs the mount works well to hide those imperfect sanded angles.

You will want to make the Mechanic's life easy when you get serviced or replace a worn out tire. I wired these bags up so you simply unplug the harness under the fender and the bag can be completely separated from the bike when needed. I used  Y-connectors which supply power to PC hard drives pull this off.  They are referred to as male and female 4 pin  Molex connectors and are available at Radio Shack.  I decided that the Pepboys trailer connectors which are available in two, four and five wire configurations are just way too big and are extreme overkill for this type implementation.

After I mounted the trailer hitch another problem arose in the fact that I could not access the point where my initial connections were made so I can't unplug the bags with out removing the trailer hitch...DOH. I can't get my hand up there anymore. Since I need to be able to check my rear tire pressure without lying on the ground like a door mat, I will be rewiring the bags so they can be disconnected from a standing position and the bag can be removed much easier. I will pick up my signals under the seat, run a harness to the right and left side bag and use these connectors from http://www.electricalconnection.com/electrical-components/hitachi.htm

These are the same locking connectors as used on most Japanese branded motorcycles.  Available in 2, 3, 4, 6 or 9 pin, they are packaged with one male and one female connector body and pins for both connectors. I strongly suggest buying the tool as they are a pain to crimp with needle nose pliers and then hit with a dab of solder.

Or go to any  Radio shack get a pair of these just cut them in half, strip and solder your wire to them as needed, shrink wrap your connections and your done.

10-Inch Disk Drive Power Extension Cable Catalog #: 278-767 $3.29 each

If you mount the plug on the left side of the picture pointing down so that the plug on the right plugs "up" into it, it will help keep water out of the connector. You could wrap the top end carefully or hit the outside wire holes with a dab or 2 of silicon.