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Technical specifications:Stebel
139db, Nautilus
Sound Output: 139 dB
Operating Voltage: 12 Volts
Absorbed Current: less than 18A
Fundamental Frequency: 530 Hz & 680 Hz
Weight: 0.6 kg (1.3 lbs)
Dimensions: 5.9" (150mm) x 4.4" (112mm) x 3.7" (95 mm)
Reaction time: less than 90 milli-seconds
To hear a sound file for this
horn go to
www.stebel.it
click on products, click on electropneumatics, then click on Nautilus.
This is a Stebel 139db, Nautilus
Compact air horn. I bought it on Ebay for $35. If you want a loud horn, buy
this. Do not test it in your garage with the door closed. LOL. It was a
wonderfully annoying as hell tone to it, people and animals will want to get
away from you when you fire it off. It comes in 3 colors which are, black,
red and chrome. Installation is a bit time consuming but well worth it. The horn is mounted
in the middle fairing on the drivers right hand side.
ANA
I used 14ga. wire to run from the
battery to a 20amp inline fuse then snaked the wired though the ride side of the
bike and eventually to the battery. When your routing the wires, stop and look
and make sure the fairing isn't going to contact the wire in any shape form or
fashion. Plastic fairing edges can cut though wires easily as a result of
vibration. I used tie wraps to secure the wire. Crimp terminal
connectors are required as well as wire because the horn comes with; the horn,
1 relay,1small rectangular stabilizer block, 1 bolt and 1 nut and that's it. The relay is a standard 30 amp automotive type
with 4 terminals.
The Power lead snakes downward from around the
radiator, along the bottom of the frame, under the left foot rest and to the
horn.
1. You simply pull the 2 wires off the
back of the stock horn and plug them into to pins 85 and 86 on the back of the
relay. It doesn't matter which goes to which because these 2 terminals (only
these 2) are not polarity sensitive.
2. The hot wire from the battery goes
to pin 30/51 (could be labeled as either)
3. You take the last pin, 87, of the
relay and take that to the + terminal on the air horn.
4. The air horn has one other pin
besides the one mentioned in Step #3 and it is ground. So you will need to take
this last pin to ground the best way you can. I used the bolt which holds the
stock horn to the frame as my grounding point.
Notice the specs say it is going to
pull around 18amps @24v so 8 amps is our useable 12v number so don't put under a
10 amp fuse in the fuse holder. And don't think that you can get away with not
running a fused wire run to the battery for this little monster. If you try to
use the existing 2 connections for a standard horn you will be replacing a lot
of fuses. If you are going to use the accessory jacks under the seat or in the
headlight bucket, good luck, and make sure you haven't tacked other devices such
as spotlights into those connectors. The accessory fuse is only a 10 amp fuse.
You make the call how you want to install it. I personally believe in
separating/isolating circuits from one another. It's just the way I do things.
I have noticed
that in this part of the country where the humidity and temperature are high
during the summer months, air conditioners in cars run all the time, windows up,
radios on, drivers in their own world of coolness and surrounded by music. Most
of the time when I have to use the horn, I HAVE TO USE THE HORN and I lay in to
it to get their distracted attentions. We aren't talking little "toots", we are
talking a 3-6 blasts. You would be amazed at people in their cars do not respond
to a 139db horn screaming right next to them when they are cutting you off, or
pulling out right in front of you and the continue unaffected. Or perhaps you
wouldn't be amazed. Anyway, cooler weather is a different story where people
have their windows down or cracked more often.
Wiring Diagram Click to
Enlarge

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