Headlight Bulbs - What's in your bucket?

 

 

Web maintained by JohnnyRide

Nthegruv@comcast.net

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

    Your new ST1300 comes with a pair of wimpy 45W/45W bulbs. Speculation as to why Honda installed these goes back to the US Regs and the maximum wattage allowed in a single reflector unit. The dual headlight bulbs in the ST1300 are not totally separated in a sealed independent reflector housings and thus in actuality, the 2 reflectors share an open space between them. So they may be interpreted, by regulation as one headlight unit and therefore the total output limited by law. Anyway,  I don't like them and there are better solutions out there.

 

    I caution you, no, I warn you against getting carried away here and installing a pair of 100w/80w in the bucket, you reallllllly don't want to do that. To much heat!!!!! melt city. Stay with the 70w/65w bulbs as your maximum wattage.

 

    I like as much light as I can get and I will not put a colored bulb in the headlight. Color is a coating and a coating stops a degree of light from passing through the bulb glass. So the easiest way to efficiently, and cost effectively put more light on the road is to buy  $19 bulbs like me, or cheaper where ever you find them,  or add in a separate wiring harness to include a relay, an in-line fuse and a nice set of running or fog lights with the additional mounting hardware.

 

    In order to be able to use H4 bulbs in the ST, you will need to use one shim per light bulb. That is the grey circular device shown below. They are around $12 for a pair of themThese shims are laser cut stainless steel so you will never need another pair!  Honda uses a proprietary bulb in the ST1100 (all years).  You must trim off the bottom 2 tabs so that the bulb will go into the housing.  Here is where the problem lies; doing so actually causes the bulb to point up, not straight as needed for proper light disbursement - these shims correct this problem.  Upgrading your bulbs without the use of the shims can actually REDUCE your light output because the bulb will sit too far into the housing. 

 

 

Shim

 

Here is a nicely written procedure on how to do this with pictures, good job Curt.

 

 

 

 

To adjust the beam to shine where you want it, click on this next picture.

 

 

 

 

 

Note: With my long fingers and large hands, I found the best way to get my hand in the area behind the fairing and change the drivers right side headlight bulb was to stand on the drivers right side of the bike facing towards the rear of the bike, turn the handlebars to the far left and reach in with my right hand with the palm facing the drivers right side rubber dust boot. Of course you would reverse you position for the drivers left side of the bike. This was the only position in which I could squeeze the two sides of the H4 plug to get the plug to release the bulb.

 

   

    I have tried so many bulbs, blue ones, yellow ones, Silverstars, Osrams, PIAA, and my favorite of the DOT compliant H4 series, Osram Silverstar Plus 50. They are 60/55W bulbs and it rates closely with the GE Megalicht +50 or Phillips Vision Plus bulb.  You can not go wrong any of these  bulbs.   The H4 +50 bulbs from the big four reputable European bulb makers (Philips VisionPlus, Osram SilverStar (not the H4ST), Narva RangePower+50, Tungsram Megalicht) are functionally identical. When 10 samples of each are put through photometric, optical comparator and life tests, there's a very narrow range of performance and life differences, and those differences are randomized among the four brands. If you are wondering is it really 50% brighter, I will tell you sort of. These lamps provide up to 50% more light on the road ahead at a distance of 50 to 100 m and longer illumination up to 20 m.  The way manufacturers compute the +50 value isn't how the average person would think it would be done. Its not an all out 50% more light in the whole beam pattern. Nope it is more concentrated than that. If fact it refers to the area of the beam where the light is the brightest and how much further down the road it goes. That area is to the right of the center of the beam.  It's the area of the road ahead at a distance of 50 to 100 m and longer illumination up to 20 m. that gets the extra light not the area to the left or right of you or even directly in front of you, it's the area ahead of you. So if your testing bulbs in your garage on the garage door trying to figure out which bulb is brighter, your not going to really be able to discern the enhanced beam pattern well at all. 

 

    Here is a link to an document which shows a comparison between a standard H4 and a H4+50 bulb. http://www.candlepowerinc.com/pdfs/SBL_Headlamp.pdf  +60 bulbs are the best output you are going to get in a "DOT stamped bulb" solution.

 

    I usually buy my bulbs from Daniel Stern.  Go read about blue bulbs, please.  Go to his website read, learn and implement with knowledge rather than guesswork or a false sense of security.  You just may be saving a life, which might be your own. Daniel can talk your head off and make you dizzy with the knowledge he processes.  He is consistent and responsive with his business and is a good guy in general.  Daniel's H4 bulbs for sale.... http://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html

 

 

 

 

   


 

General H4 Information

 

    These 2-filament bulbs with P43t base are for high/low beam headlamps and are considered the "stock" bulb for motorcycles 9 out of 10 times.  The H4 was the world's first 2-filament halogen automotive bulb. It was introduced in Europe in 1971, and was used in many millions of European and Japanese headlamps starting in that year, but wasn't legalized in the US (where it was designated HB2 or 9003) until over two decades later, in 1992!  The bulbs are not coated with blue, yellow or purple in any shape or form. They are the best technology in a legal format which meet OEM specs as well as Government Regulations.

   

    One other thing to consider is that most of these bulbs are developed for automobile headlights and the patterns under optimal conditions are probably tested in a cars reflector bucket. I would be really surprised if any of these companies actually pop one of their bulbs in a motorcycle reflector as part of the performance testing and acceptance process. As you know the pattern of light produced a motorcycle, is not the same pattern produced by your cars headlights. Totally different characteristics and properties. All you have to do is look at the two patterns side by side in the garage.  Cover up one of the auto's headlamps with a towel so you see the true variance between the car and motorcycle pattern  So that being the case, If the car reflector pattern is used as the basis of the marketing literature and technical specs, are they even relevant for a motorcycle headlight reflector???? What do you think?

 

    Look carefully at the "Tc" numbers when cross referencing bulbs. The life expectancy shortens as the voltage goes up.

 

Here are my "picks" ..... keep in mind  A regular 60/55w H4 bulb roughly outputs 1650/1000 lumen.

Tc is the hour figure at which 63.2% of tested bulbs have failed.

 

 

BULBS - I like

2000/1300 lumen

HIGH BEAM

LOW BEAM

 

The Osram PN#64205 70/65w H4 P43t.

Tc life rating of 100/200 hours (high/low beam) at 13.2v

So at 14.0 volts, Tc is going to be shorter. NON-DOT 

The Osram PN#64205 is a 70/65w.  This is a H4 P43t bulb rated at a 72/65W. The DOT regulations say a legal H4 can consume up to 72/65w.  The nominal rating remains 60/55w, however it is not DOT stamped.... go figure. Excellent light pattern. It is  brighter than the GE Megalight+50 and is a good compromise for a lower wattage bulb and the higher ones. Produces a higher light than the other +50 bulbs. After final "night time" comparisons, this bulb is closer, in visual output, to the Napa 100/80w bulb than I usedin my Nomad. I want every lumen I can get.

As of now, these are in the ST1300

 

1895/1150 lumen  GE Megalicht +50 60/55w H4 P43t.    Tc unknown. DOT Nice and bright, excellent low and high beam. I definitely what to check out a the +60 version. Of all the DOT compliant bulbs I have tried, I like this one the best.   
1650/1000 lumen

HIGH BEAM

LOW BEAM

 

Osram Silverstar Plus 50 - Which is a 64193SVS H4 +50 P43t, not the same as Sylvania Silverstar H4ST.

Tc life rating of 350/250 hours (high/low beam) at 13.2v. DOT

Nice and bright, excellent low and high beam.  

 

BULBS - I didn't like

   
1500/ 910 lumen 

Sylvania "Silverstar" blue coated H4ST bulb 60/55w  H4 P43t

Tc life rating of 50/100 hours (high/low beam) at ??.?2v.

Tc info comes from Sylvania's web site.  DOT

Blue tinted bulb, less output, color shift to 4000k gives illusion of more light. Poor light distribution pattern. Less output and brightness than the +50 bulbs.   
unknown

APC H4 Ultra White/Plasma  60/55 Watt Halogen Bulb  P43t

Tc unknown. DOT?

Trash blue bulb low output, color shift to 4000k+ gives illusion of more light.   
1650/1000 lumen est Phillips VisionPlus +50 Bulb 60/55W H4 P43t. Tc unknown. DOT Didn't work well for me, light seemed unfocused, and a slight blue tint, I just wasn't impressed.   

 

 

 

 

 RETURN TO THE MAIN MENU


www.1stautobulbs.com

 

                         


www.1stautobulbs.com