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Web maintained
by JohnnyRide
Nthegruv@comcast.net
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Your new ST1300 comes with a pair of wimpy 45W/45W bulbs.
Speculation as to why Honda installed these goes back to the US Regs and the
maximum wattage allowed in a single reflector unit. The dual headlight bulbs in
the ST1300 are not totally separated in a sealed independent reflector housings
and thus in actuality, the 2 reflectors share an open space between them. So
they may be interpreted, by regulation as one headlight unit and therefore the
total output limited by law. Anyway, I don't like them and there are better
solutions out there.
I caution you, no, I warn you against getting
carried away here and installing a pair of 100w/80w in the bucket, you reallllllly don't want to do that. To much heat!!!!! melt city. Stay with the
70w/65w bulbs as your maximum wattage.
I like as much light as I can get and I will not put a colored bulb in the
headlight. Color is a coating and a coating stops a degree of light from passing
through the bulb glass. So the easiest way to efficiently, and cost effectively
put more light on the road is to buy $19 bulbs like me, or cheaper where
ever you find them, or add in a separate wiring harness to include a
relay, an in-line fuse and a nice set of running or fog lights with the
additional mounting hardware.
In order to be able to use H4 bulbs in the ST,
you will need to use one shim per light bulb. That is the grey circular device
shown below. They are around $12 for a pair of them.
These shims are laser cut stainless steel
so you will never need another pair! Honda uses a proprietary bulb in the
ST1100 (all years). You must
trim off the bottom 2 tabs so that the bulb will go into the housing. Here is
where the problem lies; doing so actually causes the bulb to point up, not
straight as needed for proper light disbursement - these shims correct this
problem. Upgrading your bulbs without the use of the shims can actually REDUCE
your light output because the bulb will sit too far into the housing.

Shim
Here is a nicely
written procedure on how to do this with pictures, good job Curt.
To adjust the beam to shine where you want it,
click on this next picture.

Note: With my long fingers and large hands, I
found the best way to get my hand in the area behind the fairing and change the
drivers right side headlight bulb was to stand on the drivers right side of the
bike facing towards the rear of the bike, turn the handlebars to the far left
and reach in with my right hand with the palm facing the drivers right side
rubber dust boot. Of course you would reverse you position for the drivers left
side of the bike. This was the only position in which I could squeeze the two
sides of the H4 plug to get the plug to release the bulb.
I have tried so many bulbs, blue ones, yellow ones, Silverstars, Osrams, PIAA, and my favorite of the
DOT compliant H4 series, Osram Silverstar Plus 50. They are 60/55W bulbs and it
rates
closely with the GE Megalicht +50 or Phillips Vision Plus bulb. You can not go
wrong any of these bulbs.
The H4 +50 bulbs from
the big four reputable European bulb makers (Philips VisionPlus, Osram SilverStar
(not the H4ST), Narva RangePower+50, Tungsram Megalicht)
are functionally identical. When 10 samples of each are put
through photometric, optical comparator and life tests, there's
a very narrow range of performance and life differences, and those
differences are randomized among the four brands. If you are wondering
is it really 50% brighter, I will tell you sort of. These lamps provide up to 50% more light on the
road ahead at a distance of 50 to 100 m and
longer illumination up to 20 m. The way manufacturers
compute the +50 value isn't how the average person would think it
would be done. Its
not an all out 50% more light in the whole beam pattern. Nope it is more
concentrated than that. If fact it refers to the area of the beam where
the light is the brightest and how much further down the road it goes.
That area is to the right of the center of the beam. It's the area
of the road ahead at a distance of 50 to 100 m and
longer illumination up to 20 m. that gets the extra light
not the area to the left or right of you or even directly in front of
you, it's the area ahead of you. So if your testing
bulbs in your garage on the garage door trying to figure out which bulb
is brighter, your not going to really be able to discern the enhanced
beam pattern well at all.
Here is a link to an document which shows a
comparison between a standard H4 and a H4+50 bulb.
http://www.candlepowerinc.com/pdfs/SBL_Headlamp.pdf
+60 bulbs are
the best output you are going to get in a "DOT stamped bulb" solution.
I usually buy my bulbs from Daniel Stern.
Go read about blue bulbs, please. Go to his
website read, learn and implement with knowledge rather than guesswork or a
false sense of security. You just
may be saving a life, which might be your own. Daniel can talk your head off and
make you dizzy with the knowledge he processes. He is consistent and
responsive with his business and is a good guy in general. Daniel's H4
bulbs for sale....
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html

General H4 Information
These 2-filament bulbs with
P43t base are for high/low beam headlamps and are considered the "stock"
bulb for motorcycles 9 out of 10 times. The H4 was the world's first
2-filament halogen automotive bulb. It was introduced in Europe in 1971,
and was used in many millions of European and Japanese headlamps starting
in that year, but wasn't legalized in the US (where it was designated HB2
or 9003) until over two decades later, in 1992! The
bulbs are not coated with blue, yellow or purple in any shape or form.
They are the best technology in a legal format which meet OEM specs as
well as Government Regulations.
One other thing to consider is that most
of these bulbs are developed for automobile headlights and the patterns
under optimal conditions are probably tested in a cars reflector bucket.
I would be really surprised if any of these companies actually pop one
of their bulbs in a motorcycle reflector as part of the performance
testing and acceptance process. As you know the pattern of light
produced a motorcycle, is not the same pattern produced by your cars
headlights. Totally different characteristics and properties. All you
have to do is look at the two patterns side by side in the garage.
Cover up one of the
auto's headlamps with a towel so you see the true variance between the
car and motorcycle pattern So that being the case, If the car
reflector pattern is used as the basis of the marketing literature and
technical specs, are they even relevant for a motorcycle headlight
reflector???? What do you think?
Look carefully at the "Tc"
numbers when cross referencing bulbs. The life expectancy shortens as the
voltage goes up.
Here are my "picks" .....
keep in
mind A regular 60/55w H4 bulb roughly outputs 1650/1000 lumen.
Tc is the hour figure at
which 63.2% of tested bulbs have failed.
BULBS - I like
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2000/1300 lumen
HIGH BEAM
LOW BEAM |
The Osram PN#64205
70/65w H4 P43t.
Tc life rating of 100/200
hours (high/low beam) at 13.2v
So at 14.0 volts, Tc is
going to be shorter. NON-DOT |
The Osram PN#64205 is a
70/65w. This is a H4 P43t bulb rated at a 72/65W. The DOT
regulations say a legal H4 can consume up to 72/65w. The nominal rating remains 60/55w, however
it is not DOT stamped.... go figure. Excellent light pattern. It is brighter than the GE Megalight+50
and is a good compromise for a lower wattage bulb and the higher ones.
Produces a higher light than the other +50 bulbs. After final "night time"
comparisons, this bulb is closer, in visual output, to the Napa 100/80w
bulb than I usedin my Nomad. I want every lumen I can get.
As of now, these are in the ST1300
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1895/1150 lumen |
GE Megalicht +50
60/55w H4 P43t. Tc unknown. DOT |
Nice and bright, excellent
low and high beam. I definitely what to check out a the +60 version.
Of all the DOT compliant bulbs I have tried, I like this one the best.
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1650/1000 lumen
HIGH BEAM
LOW BEAM
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Osram Silverstar Plus 50 - Which is a 64193SVS H4 +50 P43t, not the same as
Sylvania Silverstar H4ST.
Tc life rating of 350/250 hours (high/low beam) at 13.2v. DOT |
Nice and bright, excellent
low and high beam.
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BULBS - I
didn't like |
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1500/ 910 lumen |
Sylvania "Silverstar" blue
coated H4ST bulb 60/55w
H4 P43t
Tc life rating of
50/100 hours (high/low beam) at ??.?2v.
Tc info comes from Sylvania's
web site. DOT |
Blue tinted bulb, less output, color shift to 4000k gives illusion of
more light. Poor light distribution pattern. Less output and
brightness than the +50 bulbs.
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unknown |
APC H4 Ultra White/Plasma 60/55
Watt Halogen Bulb
P43t
Tc unknown. DOT? |
Trash blue bulb low output, color
shift to 4000k+ gives illusion of more light.
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1650/1000 lumen est |
Phillips VisionPlus +50 Bulb
60/55W H4 P43t. Tc unknown. DOT |
Didn't work well for me,
light seemed unfocused, and a slight blue tint, I just wasn't
impressed.
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